Ayurveda and jumbo prawns

Kerala: Drift away

by Jonathan Milligan - 05/03/2005

Seasoned travellers know India can be a hectic place. Well-trodden routes such as the Golden Triangle can lose their mystique amongst the bustle of yet another overcrowded attraction, train, bus or street.

For many, the key is to search out peaceful retreats where you can relax before rejoining the melee.

We set out to do just that in the laid-back state of Kerala on India's south west coast.

Our first destination was the Ayurvedic beach resort of Varkala. The word Ayurveda is derived from the Sanskrit, ayu (life) and veda (knowledge) and is considered the science or knowledge of life.

It has been practised for thousands of years and and there are numerous centres in Varkala where you can enjoy ayurvedic massage and yoga, activities considered by some as key to a balanced life.

The beach sits at the foot of majestic cliffs which glow red as the sun sets on the waters of the Lakshadweep Sea. After a hard day's sunbathing you can enjoy seafood of the highest quality at the cafes and restaurants which line the cliff-top.

The catch of the day is displayed on porcelain-tiled tables and can include shark, king fish and some seriously big prawns, all at ridiculously low prices.

Once selected your dish is whisked away for slow cooking in a traditional clay oven known as a tandoor.

There is plenty of budget accommodation nestled among the eateries with the more upmarket hotels lining the road into the small town.

One of the highlights of a visit to Kerala has to be a boat trip on the famous backwaters.

This vast network of rivers, canals and lakes stretches far inland from the coast and has helped mould a unique lifestyle for its inhabitants.

Most tourists take the direct eight-hour trip on a motorised craft between Kollam and Alappuzha, but chartering a houseboat of your own or as part of a small group affords you a much more intimate view of life on the water.

The riverbanks are dotted with villages and small settlements and the hyacinth-laiden waterways teem with industry as nuts and fruit are loaded onto boats.

Those not collecting coconuts to make coir (coconut fibre) and copra (dried coconut meat) can be found re-setting their cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, which form intriguing shapes on the backwater skyline.

Drifting along on these calm waters will soothe even the most agitated soul.

Finally, we headed back to our starting point, the vibrant city of Kochi to the north of Kerala.

It stands on a collection of small islands (one of which is artificial) and has a diverse cultural heritage combining Portuguese, Dutch and English architectural styles.

The 16th-century synagogue with its hand-painted Chinese floor tiles is well worth a visit, as is the surrounding area which forms the hub of the Kochi spice trade.

Small doorways lining the streets open out into vast courtyards, covered entirely in swathes of ginger, pepper, coffee and cardamom as they dry in the midday sun. The aromas are incredible and it's a great place to test your haggling skills.

St Francis's, India's oldest European-built church is also worth a visit. Constructed by the Portuguese in 1503, it was also the original resting place for the explorer Vasco da Gama, who died in the city.

The Mattancherry Palace is another Portuguese construction - with an amazing array of turbans, palanquins and dresses, worn by the Rajas at coronation ceremonies, on display.

The main attraction at the palace is the incredible display of murals in the central hall.

Various scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, the ancient religious epics on which much of Indian culture is based, adorn the walls.

For those daunted by the sheer size and vastness of India, Kerala is a great place to begin exploring.

So far it seems to have avoided the clutches of the overzealous hotel empires, but this is sure to change soon.

In many areas you can find yourself travelling along dusty paths or rippling canals without meeting anyone - in a land of over a billion inhabitants.

Make the most of it while you can.