Cruising through the Cotswolds

Cotswolds: Glorious greenery

by Will Venn - 23/01/2008

Flood warnings were to signal the start of our long weekend in the Cotswolds, close to where the River Severn and its tributaries are no strangers to bursting their banks.

But with a healthy dose of optimism and a pair of wellies on our side we were prepared to face whatever nature had in store. Well, hopefully just a few puddles.

Leaving the A40, about 20 miles west of Oxford, our arrival into a land of thatched roofed honey coloured cottages and startling natural landscapes began as we descended down into historic Burford; its sloping main street and 15th century church so typical of many of the village high streets across this part of Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire.

Before long we reached Bourton-on-the-Water and paused for an amble beside the river Windrush. Along either side of the river are boutique style shops selling jewellery, art and Cotswolds furniture; perfect havens in which to browse and escape the pouring rain which was making the river swell. Small wonder then that this area is sometimes referred to as the Little Venice of the Cotswolds.

Despite the apocalyptic skies it was still interesting to see quite a few foreign tourists taking photographs of the village, particularly the phone boxes, as if a mundane rainy day in January only adds to the quintessential English charm of the area.

A short drive from here, and just seven minutes later we arrived at the Slaughters. Even if we had arrived 400 years earlier we probably wouldn't have noticed any difference to how Upper and Lower Slaughter look and stand today, as if frozen in time on a postcard. Depending on which guide book you read, this interestingly named part of the Cotswolds either derives from an old English name for wet land or from some derivative of the words: Sloe tree.

In the village hall of Lower Slaughter, cakes and sandwiches were being laid out in preparation for a wake, following a funeral in the nearby village church. Towards one end of the village, just across the Eye stream which bisects the area is a beautiful old mill, which is usually open for visitors, but seemed closed when we visited.

Upper Slaughter is no less attractive and is home to a wonderful Manor house. Driving around this area felt like a crime; as if a burst of something as modern as a car threatens the whole serenity of the area, but to be honest, as guilty pleasures go, it's probably the easiest way to take in a large chunk of the Cotswolds if you have just a weekend.

Our final stop for the day was Broadway. American novelist Henry James described this beautiful Worcestershire village in the following way: "There is portraiture in the air and composition in the very accidents."

He would be impressed today then with the number of art galleries, exhibitions and craft shops that line the lengthy high street, particularly the John Noot Gallery. A walk around Broadway was like wandering into Stepford Wives territory. Perfectly trimmed lawns without a jot of rubbish anywhere made us feel we were in a special place, something more than just a sanctuary for Cream Tea enthusiasts. It was only the relentless rain and parking around the back of Budgens which reminded us we weren't in Eden.

Our accommodation for the evening was Russells; an award winning "restaurant with rooms" as it refers to itself. There is a touch of urban cool about this lovely place where attention to detail is evident from the special candle holders on the dining tables to the flat screen TVs in the roomy bedrooms and the complimentary bottle of apple juice next to the DVD player. An honesty bar and guest book on a drinks cabinet on the first floor landing was another nice touch, adding to the welcoming surroundings.

Our evening meal was superb. The menu is varied but the focus is on modern British cusine. We opted for a tapas to share for starters, followed by a rib eye steak and a lip smackingly delicious fig tart and honey ice cream for desert, all washed down with a lovely Burgundy Chablis.

In between courses the part-owner of Russells', Andrew Riley, explained to us how last summer, he was enjoying watching a game of cricket, when the alarming news came in of flood waters cascading down the high street.

Fortunately a few well placed sandbags helped Russells escape the fate that nearby Tewkesbury suffered when the River Severn rampaged through the town. Either way, I was glad our room was on the first floor.

Post dinner activities involved little more than a waddle to the nearby Lygon Arms. This hotel is historically intertwined with the Cotswolds, and in parts is as old as Queen Elizabeth 1. It's also a good spot to practise your archery, have a martini, or if you are Charles 1, meet with your Cavalier supporters.

The following morning, after a magnificent breakfast in Russells, the highlight of which was either the pineapple marmalade or spirit-enhancing porridge, we headed to Broadway Tower, the highest little castle in the Cotswolds.

On a good day you can see the Welsh mountains in the distance, as well as the Vale of Evesham from this 1,000ft high Gothic folly. On a bad day such as the one we visited on, you can barely make out the tower when it's just 100 metres in front of you. As luck would have it, fog wrapped itself around this great structure just as we approached it so it wasn't going to yield its secrets that day. At least the mist added to the Gothic atmosphere of it all.

Back on lower ground we finished our visit with a drive through Chipping Camden, its old buildings framed by the most perfectly manicured hedges, bubbles of green against the wet sandstone.

Without the bus loads of tourists that usually descend on the Cotswolds in summer and with attractive out-of-season prices for accommodation in many B&Bs and hotels around the area, places like Broadway, Lower Slaughter and Bourton-on-the-Water are ideal for a weekend escape in spring or around Valentine's Day. Short of flooding, not even the rain will dampen your spirits.