The local cuisine is delicious and specialities include mallorca - a sweet pastry drenched in powdered sugar which is enjoyed at breakfast time, empanadilla, a pocket of plantain (one of the island's staple foods) or yucca dough filled with meat, and pionono, deep-fried plantain cones stuffed with meat or cheese. Main meals include asopao de pollo, a spicy chicken stew and most meat dishes come with an accompaniment of rice and beans.
There's a big American influence on the island and this is true of the cuisine as well. So if you're missing a bit of comfort food, you'll find plenty of burger bars and chain restaurants like Denny's. On the drinks front, rum is the national tipple and the coffee's superb.
San Juan is the nightlife hub of the island and many of the most popular bars and clubs are found in the San Sebastian area. The Condado-Isla Verde strip is less bustling, but full of chic drinking dens. You'll also find plenty of places to hone your salsa dancing skills in the city, and if you're a gambling man, the hotel casinos are always busy. For those in search of more cultural pursuits, the performing arts centre known as Bellas Artes has a 1,800-seater concert hall and stages opera, ballet and classical concerts.
In Ponce, the boardwalk is the place to go in the evening. Covering around half a mile around the pretty harbour, it's great for bars, restaurants, salsa music and people-watching. Away from the main island, you'll also find plenty of live jazz venues on Vieques.