Dodecanese Holiday Guide

Rhodes' modern international airport is very busy – the third busiest in Greece – and has taxi services, duty-free shopping, terminal parking and currency exchange. The airport at Kos gets extremely crowded in high season.

You can arrive via ferry from places such as Athens, Cyprus and Turkey. Bus services link key destinations on the islands, and you can also rent a car or motorbike – although hazards include potholes, sheep and speeding locals.

Rhodes Town beach begins north of Mandraki harbour – it's not so crowded at its most northerly point. The best beaches are at Lindos and Pefkos, while Faliraki is popular with teens and 20-somethingswho can windsurf and jet-ski, before heading off to a club. Beaches on the western side of Rhodes are more exposed, windy and pebbly – but good for windsurfing.

On Kos, Kardamena is the liveliest beach but inevitably gets chockablock in high season. Lambi Beach can also get overcrowded, while Marmari and Tingaki beaches, eight miles from Kos Town, are slightly less packed. Along the south coast, beaches are more sandy (and oddly-named), such as Banana, Sunny and Camel. Bubble Beach is so-called because of nearby volcanic activity.

History buffs will certainly be intrigued on holiday at the Dodecanese Islands. You won't see the Colossus of Rhodes, despite images on t-shirts and souvenirs – it's a legendary statue but no-one knows if it even existed. Instead, in Rhodes Old Town, take a guided walk within the World Heritage-listed fortifications to re-live the tales of medieval knights.

The history of Rhodes is also evident in its mosque and synagogue, and it has half a dozen museums for history buffs. For great views, visit the Acropolis of Rhodes. Kos was home to the father of medicine, Hippocrates, and the islands most important ancient site is Asklepieion, a medical sanctuary. The most famous monument in Kos Town is the 14th century Castle of the Knights. Remember, many attractions will be closed on Mondays.

Lindos, about 30 miles from Rhodes, has scenic 17th century houses and winding cobbled streets packed with tourist shops and cafes. The Acropolis of Lindos is a spectacular sight with great views of the island. Kos is relatively flat so cycling is easy and popular. The thermal springs at Therma Loutra offer the chance to try a natural spa, and the sunsets at the mountain village of Zia make a photogenic backdrop to specially laid-on Greek evenings for tourists.

Ferries from Rhodes and Kos take you to Nissyros, which is the only Greek island with a volcano. Kalymnos (home to famous sponge fishermen) and Pserimos can be visited together in one day, while Symi has a colourful harbour.

And of course, if you're on Kos, visit Rhodes, and vice versa. On day trips to Bodrum, try a Turkish bath.

All-day English breakfasts plus meat-and-two-veg are available in the main tourist areas but you can also find restaurants featuring Chinese, Italian, Scandinavian and German cuisine. There are plenty of tacky touristy restaurants and burger joints but in the backstreets of the Old Town of Rhodes you will find tavernas offering cheap local food such as moussaka (layers of aubergine, meat and cheese) and stifado (meat or seafood in tomato sauce), washed down with ouzo.

Meze is a selection of Greek dishes (mezedes) – a great way to try what you like without committing to a full meal. You're likely to get options such as taramasalata (fish roe), feta cheese, tzatziki (yoghurt dip), dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), keftedes (meatballs) and saganaki (deep fried goat's cheese) – all better than the versions we get in UK supermarkets. Seafood is another must-try – such as souvlaki (fish kebab), burdeta (fish with cayenne pepper) or astakos (lobster).

The cosmopolitan bars in Rhodes Old Town are lively – full of travellers, scuba divers, Europeans, Aussies  and Brits of course - which leaves clubbers plenty of choice on holiday at the Dodecanese Islands. You'll find plenty of dance clubs, pubs and live music (traditional Greek and more modern tunes). Clubbers' paradise Faliraki is famous (or infamous, depending on your point of view) for its buzzing (and boozy) foam parties.

Flash the cash at the Casino of Rhodes in the Grand Hotel Summer Palace if you fancy a flutter. Kardamena is the party capital of Kos, with the best bars, karaoke and nightclubs, but you'll also find techno and garage in Kos Town, as well as English pubs with footie on big screens. If you're feeling more sedate, wander around Kos Town, head up to the Castle of the Knights and take in the view of Kos harbour's fishing boats, yachts and ferries.

In Rhodes Old Town you can buy jewellery, leather goods and souvenirs of ancient Greek remains or just browse its flea market. On Kos, the village of Siana sells locally produced honey, while Lindos and Afandou sell carpets, lace and embroidery. The main tourist areas offer plastic tat – but for cheaper jewellery and leather goods, take a day trip to Bodrum in Turkey and practise your haggling skills for a genuine fake Rolex.

From July to September, local kids perform traditional folk dances in the Municipal Theatre of Rhodes and depending on when you visit, you could see a religious festival – even donkey racing at Agios Soulas in July. There's a water park and fun fair in Faliraki, while Pefkos and Ixia are suitable resorts for families.

On Kos, the resort of Psalidi is close enough to Kos Town for mum and dad to enjoy its nightlife yet still quiet with more kiddie-orientated hotels. Shape Water Park has slides and flumes to keep kids occupied for a day – and bars and shops for the folks. The new Lido Water Park at Mastichari is huge.